Is the Sultan of Steak really the dish of the day? Salt Bae is the hottest new chef in London, charging £700 for gold-leaf covered meat and £100 for a burger. JAN MOIR samples the sizzle 

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You know, I’ve experienced a lot of horrible things during my years as a restaurant critic. Prepared mackerel with rhubarb syrup. Stew made from Bear’s Choice cuts. Jeremy Clarkson eating a dumpling.

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Yet few places can compare to the obscenity of a charred tomahawk steak wrapped in 24-karat gold leaf and priced at over £700. It’s the house specialty at the newly opened Nusser-et steakhouse in London, where prices start at the expensive at the foot of the volcano and rise in an explosion of gold-plated, meat-based additions.

Surely, you might wonder, no one in their right mind would order such a thing? Yet the table next to me has ordered just two, which come on a wooden platter, meat bullion for pocket depth, and hungry.

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Elsewhere in packed restaurants, diners are tucking into other Nusser-et specialties such as ‘meat spaghetti’ – thin strips of steak wound around a fork and eaten like pasta – or putting on a bubbling skillet of hot butter. Slices of striploin baked tableside them.

It’s a scene, it’s wild, it’s a carnival for wealthy carnivores who don’t mind paying £100 for a gold-leaf hamburger or £9 to wash down a Coca-Cola. And surprisingly, there is no shortage of takers in Knightsbridge just a few days after the restaurant opened.

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The joint is jumping on Saturday lunchtime, burning state-of-the-art charcoal grills – but the hottest thing in the place has to be owner Nusrat Goke herself, who creates waves of excitement every time she appears on the floor.

Few places can compare to the obscenity of a charred tomahawk steak wrapped in 24-karat gold leaf and priced at over £700. It’s the house specialty at the newly opened Nusser-et steakhouse in London, where prices start at the expensive at the foot of the volcano and rise to an explosion of gold-plated, meat-based additions.

London diners will be able to get their hands on the 24-karat gold tomahawk steak, which has previously been a menu item at their Dubai branch (pictured)

London diners will be able to get their hands on the 24-karat gold tomahawk steak, which has previously been a menu item at their Dubai branch (pictured)

Salt Bay, real name Nusrat Gokse, is the owner of a chain of Nusr-et restaurants and is known for his dramatic salt-spraying antics

Salt Bay, real name Nusrat Gokse, is the owner of a chain of Nusr-et restaurants and is known for his dramatic salt-spraying antics

Rumors of Salt Bay's London branch have been circulating since 2017.  He wrote on Instagram this week: 'I've been waiting for a long time but finally the dream came true'

Rumors of Salt Bay’s London branch have been circulating since 2017. He wrote on Instagram this week: ‘I’ve been waiting for a long time but finally the dream came true’

Much-anticipated new restaurant has been 'opened in the heart of the world', restaurant writer writes online

Much-anticipated new restaurant has been ‘opened in the heart of the world’, restaurant writer writes online

TODAY the 38-year-old wore an eye-catching bow tie with her customary gold-rimmed sunglasses and tied her hair up in a man-bun. Small and muscular, he is compact as an acrobat and there is a suspicion that he resembles his passing with Johnny Depp. He recently said, ‘I am not a movie star, but whenever I walk on the street, I still take my picture hundreds of times. ‘I never say never.’

As of 2017, Nusret was just another Turkish butcher-turned-chef, a man known in the Middle East for his upscale grill restaurants and his steak-slicing flamboyance, but little known elsewhere.

Then one of his memes of preparing and seasoning meat in his trademark ‘erotic’ way became an internet sensation. He now has 38 million followers on Instagram and is worth millions. ‘Wow!’ It’s his phrase. Hardly original, but the thick mustard on some of his steaks sticks to the glaze.

On screen and in flesh, Nushrat licks and slaps meat, cuts it with the precision of a surgeon and then, in the piece de resistance, sprinkles salt on it which has gone viral.

Bending his arm backward like a goose’s neck, he bounces the crystal off his muscular forearm and onto the steak. ‘I wanted it to look like salt was coming from the sky. It was my golden touch,’ he says. Today he is known as the ‘Meat King’ and ‘Sexiest Butcher in the World’, although competition for the latter was not fierce.

What is happening? In the old days, cooks needed a TV series or a book—or at least a great recipe—to become famous. But Nushrat needed 37 seconds of salty theatrics to secure her fame and fortune.

The Turkish-born butcher already has 19 restaurants around the world that are popular among celebs including Conor McGregor (pictured together), P Diddy, David Beckham and Leonardo DiCaprio.  New branch sure to be London hotspot

The Turkish-born butcher already has 19 restaurants around the world that are popular among celebs including Conor McGregor (pictured together), P Diddy, David Beckham and Leonardo DiCaprio. New branch sure to be London hotspot

Nusrat Gokse is pictured with DJ Khaled at his birthday party in 2017.  There are tons of celeb fans, including Salt Bay's Sean Diddy Combs, Fergie and Meghan Trainor.

Nusrat Gokse is pictured with DJ Khaled at his birthday party in 2017. There are tons of celeb fans, including Salt Bay’s Sean Diddy Combs, Fergie and Meghan Trainor.

The joint is jumping around at lunchtime Saturday, burning state-of-the-art charcoal grills – but the hottest thing in the place has to be owner Nusret Göcke (pictured in 2017), who creates waves of excitement every time he appears. does it on the ground

The joint is jumping around at lunchtime Saturday, burning state-of-the-art charcoal grills – but the hottest thing in the place has to be owner Nusret Göcke (pictured in 2017), who creates waves of excitement every time he appears. does it on the ground

The Sultan of Steak Has a Big Instagram Where He Shares Photos of Cuts of Meat

The Sultan of Steak Has a Big Instagram Where He Shares Photos of Cuts of Meat

Now their nickname is Salt Bay, a 17-strong chain of restaurants worldwide and has become a brand. Rihanna wears a T-shirt with her image, David Beckham and Lionel Messi are fans, boxer Conor McGregor was fed an £800 gold steak at Nusser-et in Dubai, while actor Jason Statham visits a Beverly Hills branch. Nusrate claims that eager customer Leonardo DiCaprio said his steak was ‘the best meat he’s ever had in his life’.

London’s restaurant is the newest outpost, with its opening delayed due to Covid. Here each table is set with Nusser-et branded cutlery and, dangerously, a pair of steel forceps. Despite what Leo says, I’m not too impressed with their first course, a steak tartare (£40) served on a wooden board decorated with an artful smear of mustard and tomato ketchup.

Instead of the usual hand-sliced ​​steak, this tartare looks like some kind of hellish meat jam, with the texture of mashed lipstick. Despite the addition of capers and seasonings, it tastes absolutely nothing.

But never mind, Salt Bay is among us! Nusrat walks through the restaurant in a regal…

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